Hangzhou was our last stop before the end of the tour. It was also one of my favorite places because it was so beautiful and CLEAN. For the past ten days my snot had been coming out black, but it was actually starting to clear up a little here. We were given a terrible tour guide, who kept punctuating every sentence with "Ah"! Granted, the other tour guides whose Cantonese was not their first dialect did it, too, but they didn't do it as much as this one. "Ah! We are at the tomb of YuFei. Ah! He was a war hero. Ah!"
We were told by Leslie that the reason Hangzhou was so beautiful was because of Nixon's historic visit to China. Hangzhou was one of his stops, and he made an offhand comment about how it was beautiful, but kind of old-looking. So then the Hangzhou government decided to clean it up and make it into a really beautiful place. It is actually pretty crazy - if you compare it to the crowdedness and smog-filled cities like Shanghai and Beijing. You can actually breathe in Hangzhou, and have some semblance of a private space.
We walked around SaiWu, or West Lake, and also took a short boat ride that was pretty awesome. I loved all the landscapes, and we passed by several people who had rented their own boats for the afternoon. A Mongolian tour group passed us and started singing loudly in their own language - they were wearing their own country's clothes - furs and all - and all of them had very red, sunburnt faces.
After the boat ride was a visit to the temple and tomb of YuFei, who as far as I could tell was a war hero in some far off dynasty. We were informed that most of the original tomb had been ransacked and destroyed during the Cultural Revolution (at least I think that's what she said) and that many of the items we saw, such as statues, and paintings, were pieced together afterwards.
Hangzhou is famous for their tea leaves, supposedly some of the best in the world. So of course our government sponsored tour stop for the day is a tea house where they sell us tea leaves at fucking outrageous prices. And I mean prices that would be outrageous even in America. Our salesman talked a lot about the antioxidant benefits of green tea, which I was with him on until he told us that some dude had been injecting the AIDS virus into watermelons and that you could actually get AIDS that way. The implication being that drinking green tea would purify the AIDS virus out of you. "Don't worry, he has been caught." I shot my sister a look and could hardly hold my laughter in.
Oh, and this may be a betrayal of my heritage but I thought the Chinese green tea was way too bitter. I prefer the Japanese kind.
God, Chinese medicine.
Our next stop was actually for Chinese medicine. This won raves all over the bus, as many of the tour participants were old immigrants and had various aches and pains, and believed that the stankier something was, the better it was for you. My sister and I joined my mom in a room where the salesman gave us some handouts. My sister and I were given the English translation, which was full of grammatical errors and almost seemed to hail from a different universe. What is "wind-phlegm"? I still have the paper somewhere.
My sister and I had to leave the room, though, when the salesperson started rubbing free samples of ointments all over people. You would have thought he was giving out gold or something, the way people were like, "Hey, over here! My back hurts!" Have you ever smelled Tiger Balm? It's a god-awful smelling herbal ointment that people (even Mark's mom uses it) use to rub on places that hurt. Picture an enclosed space with thirty people clamoring to be rubbed with something even more foul-smelling than that.
Ugh. Yeah, so we had to leave the room. The front had a display of various Chinese alternative medicines with probably mislabelled English - many of them said "Semen _____". There was one of dried human placenta. You can probably see the rest on my
Flickr page.
After dinner we saw an acrobat show that was supposed to showcase all of Chinese history, I think. I think one of the dancers was Indian - she didn't look very Chinese to me. It was pretty cool and my parents both loved it. I couldn't get any good pictures on my camera though.
Afterwards Leslie mentioned that he competed in a singing competition once and had even been offered a record contract. He turned it down because he was in school at the time. Anyway, he serenaded us with a few songs - the first one, from Leslie Cheung's archive, the second one, Andy Lau's "mong ching sui" and the third, Teresa Teng's famous song whose title escapes me.
At the hotel, I was relieved to find out that our beds were soft.
The next day, Guangzhou!